By Rhiannon Payne (Recommendations by Ryo Kajiwara)
Published on February 9, 2025
In preparation for RubyKaigi 2025 in Matsuyama this spring, I’m collaborating with my friend Ryo Kajiwara, a RubyKaigi organizer and Matsuyama local, to create a list of local sights and day trips to help attendees make the most of their time in Ehime! (Even if you’re not attending RubyKaigi, these recommendations are applicable to any Ehime trip.)
Be sure to read all the way to the end of this post to find out about an incredible art festival that only happens once every three years and happens to start right after RubyKaigi!
But first, let’s start with the fundamentals: accommodations in Matsuyama and getting around.
Hotels in Matsuyama
RubyKaigi is taking place at the Ehime Prefectural Convention Hall in downtown Matsuyama.
For purposes of the conference, it’s best to book accommodations in the Okaido area since it's close to where side events and parties will likely take place. But if you want the full onsen experience, the Dogo Onsen area is good, too.
Personally, we booked at the Candeo Matsuyama, which is in close proximity to both the conference venue and probable party locations.
If you’re looking for a more traditional experience, you can also stay at a local ryokan. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn known for high levels of hospitality, Japanese cuisine, and decor (rooms are typically tatami mats with futon beds, although some ryokans offer “Western” rooms as well). Ryokans will typically serve guests a wonderful dinner from a set menu, included with their stay. This is a good option for one or two nights. Ryo recommends Yamatoya in Matsuyama, which has a traditional Noh stage on the premises, allowing guests to see performances from their rooms! It also has an onsen in the building.
You can search for hotels on Agoda.com, which is a travel aggregator known for great deals across Japan.
Getting to Matsuyama From Tokyo
My husband Justin and I will be spending a week in Tokyo before the conference and decided to take the train to Matsuyama.
From Tokyo, it’s a six-hour train journey with a transfer in Okayama. (We’ll be spending two nights in Okayama when leaving Matsuyama in order to avoid two long travel days.) At the time of writing, it’s about $150pp for a one-way train ticket. We chose the train to avoid dealing with airport security, baggage fees, and general stress—and we just like taking trains.
You can also fly from Tokyo to Matsuyama. There are direct flights via Jetstar, ANA, and JAL, which take just over an hour and range from $60 to $190 round trip at the time of writing.
Getting Around Matsuyama
If you’re staying near the convention center, it’s quite easy to get around on foot, as the city center of Matsuyama is extremely walkable!
However, the city is also well-connected by local JR trains (Japan’s rail system). You can take the JR by using the Suica card, which you can add to your Apple Wallet and refill digitally. You can also charge up your Suica card at convenience stores.
Local Matsuyama Sights
While you’re in Matsuyama, spend a day (or two or three) checking out the city’s best sights!
Dogo Onsen
The Dogo Onsen is one of the most popular tourist spots in Matsuyama—and with good reason. It’s one of the oldest hot springs in Japan, and its history goes back over 1,000 years.
Despite being in the city center, the Dogo Onsen complex has the feeling of a rustic resort town—some people will even walk around the streets in their robes after leaving the baths!
The Main Building of the Dogo Onsen is designated as “Important Cultural Property” and is the most popular (and crowded) part.
Many locals (like Ryo) prefer Tsubaki-no-yu, which is less touristy and more relaxing.
You can also visit Asuka-no-yu, which is the newest building in the complex. It’s more spacious than the original onsen and has a colorful interior with a design that combines classic and modern aesthetics.
Matsuyama Castle
Visiting Matsuyama Castle is a truly unique experience as it is one of only 12 castles in Japan that retains its original “tenshu,” or central building. Its six watchtowers are also original.
Matsuyama Castle was built in 1603 in a similar style to the more famous Himeji Castle from the same period.
It’s only a 20-minute walk from the JR Shikoku Matsuyama Station and a 13-minute walk from the conference center, which means you have no excuse not to visit it (no, your karaoke hangover isn’t a valid excuse!)
To get up to the castle, you can either climb or take the Matsuyama Castle Ropeway (gondola).
Ishite-ji
Ishite-ji is a Buddhist temple in Matsuyama, only 25 minutes by foot from the conference center (or 11 minutes by train). Seven of its structures have been designated “National Treasures” or “Important Cultural Properties” in Japan, including its beautiful three-story pagoda.
Ishite-ji is number 51 of the 88 temples on the Shikoku Henro, which is a famous pilgrimage path. While it takes at least ten days to experience the full Shikoku Henro pilgrimage (even by car), you can visit one of its most spectacular sights right in the city.
Museums in Matsuyama
Matsuyama is home to many beautiful museums, and these are among the best (as recommended by Ryo):
- Ehime Prefectural Art Museum: A major attraction on the grounds of Matsuyama Castle.
- Saka No Ue No Kumo Museum: Based on the novel by Shiba Ryotaro which depicts the events of Meiji-era Japan leading into the Russo-Japanese War.
- Shiki Memorial Museum: Dedicated to Masaoka Shiki, a famous poet known for his haikus. Matsuyama is known as the “city of the Haiku” due to the many poets and writers who lived there.
Ehime Day Trips From Matsuyama
If you have a few extra days in Matsuyama, take advantage of its prime location in the Ehime prefecture and enjoy a day or two outside of the city!
Shimanami Kaido (Chain of Bridges for Cycling)
Shimanami Kaido is a chain of bridges that spans across several islands, from Imabari to Onomichi. It is famous amongst cyclists for its scenic views.
Getting to Shimanami Kaido takes one to two hours by train from Matsuyama City Station, or 80 minutes by bus.
The area is optimized for cycling, with safe biking routes and over 150 cyclist-friendly stops along the way (from retail shops to restaurants and guest houses). It’s also easy to rent bikes at either end of the route. Here’s a first-timer’s guide to Shimanami Kaido cycling.
Uchiko & Ozu (Historic Japanese Towns)
Uchiko and Ozu are small towns in Ehime, popular for their traditional Japanese streets, buildings and old-world vibe. Uchiko and Ozu are quite close to each other (15-20 minutes by car or via a local train) and many tourists will visit both in the same day.
As the Uchiko tourism website says, “The area is filled with historic townscapes and beautiful rural mountain scenery, making you feel as if you’ve traveled back in time.”
Visitors to Uchiko can enjoy walks around the Yokaichi & Gokoku historical districts, a visit to the historic Uchiko-za theatre, and a walk to the rural Yuge Shrine (dating back to the 14th century).
Ozu is known for its castle, which also dates back to the 14th century (recorded as opening in 1331). And it offers tourists the rare opportunity to stay overnight in a castle!
If lodging in the castle is out of budget, there’s also a small ryokan in Ozu with 10 or so cats that come out to greet guests. At the time of writing, rooms at the ryokan start at $38/night.
Although Uchiko and Ozu are popular tourist destinations in Ehime, they’re still off-the-beaten path for most visitors to Japan and offer a unique perspective on the region’s culture and history.
Getting from Matsuyama to Uchiko or Ozu is easy—there’s a JR express train from Matsuyama Station that takes just ~45 minutes (Yosan Line Limited Express).
Nagahama (Aesthetic Coastal Town)
Not to be confused with the larger city called Nagahama in central Japan, Nagahama is a small coastal town in Ehime, south of Matsuyama.
It’s known for its “Instagramable” seaside views, aesthetic train stations, and a cute aquarium run by high school students, which is open to the public every third Saturday of the month (this coincides with the weekend after RubyKaigi).
Nagahama also has an observatory that offers views of the river feeding into the Seto Inland Sea, as well as a drawbridge that is the oldest of its kind still in use in Japan.
You can get to this quiet little town by taking the train from Matsuyama to Iyo-Nagahama station, which takes about an hour. You can also stop at Shimonada station on the way, which is near a little fishing village and known for its picturesque views. These trains are infrequent, so it’s important to check the time tables carefully.
If you’re traveling by car or motorcycle, taking the Route 378 is strongly recommended, as it has spectacular views.
Mount Ishizuchi (Ropeway, Hiking, & Views)
Mount Ishizuchi is the highest mountain in western Japan and one of Japan’s seven “sacred peaks.”
If you enjoy nature and hiking, this is a great option for a day trip.
Mount Ishizuchi offers several climbing routes, with the main one starting with a ropeway (gondola) ride that goes from the Saijo side to the Ishizuchi Shrine Jojusha (which is about halfway up the mountain). From there, you can continue on a 4.7km hike to the top, with incredible views of the mountains and the sea. At the summit, there is a restaurant, shop, and accomodations for weary travelers.
Getting to the Mount Ishizuchi area is a bit of a challenge via public transit from Matsuyama, but not impossible. According to Japan’s National Tourism Organization:
“From JR Matsuyama Station, take the Limited Express train for about an hour to JR Iyo-Saijo Station. From there, it takes about an hour by bus to the Ishizuchi Ropeway.”
Hiroshima & Miyajima Island
My husband Justin and I visited Hiroshima and Miyajima Island on a day trip from Osaka last year. It’s so wonderful and there’s so much to see and do, it should be the subject of its own blog post.
It’s also a very possible day trip from Matsuyama, as there is a high-speed ferry that travels from Matsuyama to Hiroshima in 70 to 80 minutes (the Super Jet). Once you’re at the port of Hiroshima, it’s another 30 minutes by ship to Miyajima.
It is a lot of travel for one day and will require waking up very early in the morning, especially if you want to visit Miyajima. Because it’s such a popular tourist destination, try to arrive in Miyajima before 8am to enjoy the sights without as many crowds (we woke up at 4am the day we did this trip from Osaka).
Here’s a short list of things that make Miyajima and Hiroshima worth the effort:
- “Floating” Shinto shrine on the water with iconic orange gate
- Many friendly deer (similar to Nara)
- Historic temple complexes to explore
- Five story pagoda
- Ropeway (gondola) to the top of a mountain with what many consider the most beautiful views in all of Japan
- Short hike up (once you get off the ropeway) with many small shrines along the way
- Oysters au gratin
- Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (incredibly powerful)
I recommend doing Miyajima in the morning, having lunch on the island, and then going to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum in the afternoon. You can also check tide forecasts for Miyajima to see when the tides will be high, which makes the famous shrine appear to be “floating” on the water.
Lesser-known Ehime Day Trips From Matsuyama (By Car)
These are Ryo’s recommendations for hidden gems in the Ehime area—however, they require a car, and it’s worth noting that most people who live in these rural areas do not speak English. But don’t let that deter you!
- Danbata (staircase farm) of Yusu Mizugaura (link in Japanese)
- Shikoku Karst (scenic spot)
- “Cat islands” (Note: These islands have very limited access due to the number of ships and they are not "tourist locations,” so some of them have very limited or no shops/vending machines.)
The Setouchi Triennale 2025 (Multi-Island Art Festival)
The Setouchi Triennale is a major contemporary art festival in the Seto Island Sea that only happens once every three years. This year, it happens to start right after RubyKaigi (April 18 to May 25)!
The festival takes place across eleven islands in the region, with contemporary art installations, performances, and exhibitions set against the backdrop of the sea and nature.
Artists from all over the world participate, creating works that blend art with nature in a unique way. While exploring the islands, you can find art installations in outdoor spots, abandoned houses, and old buildings.
Some of the most popular participating islands are Naoshima and Shodoshima (see the full list here). Naoshima is one of the easiest to get to from Matsuyama.
To get to Naoshima Island from Matsuyama, take a JR train on the Yosan Line to Uno Station, which takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. From Uno Station, walk to Uno Port and take a ferry to Naoshima, which takes about 20 minutes.
(Header image source: matsuyama-sightseeing.com)
